Essays
In the Sala dello Scrutinio — the hall where Venetian senators used to cast their votes for the election of the doge — there is a painting that stops you in your tracks. It is The Battle of Lepanto by Andrea Vicentino (Andrea Michieli, c. 1539–1614).
Places
There is a moment, after crossing to Giudecca, when Venice becomes quieter. The noise drops, the pace slows, and the city feels more distant. The entrance to the garden is almost hidden.
Nice Stuff
Some places don’t need to be reinvented. They ask to be continued.
Food
To find a treasure you usually have to dig a little. Look carefully. Be ready for something unexpected. Venice often works like that.
Food
Al Covino is a very small, intimate restaurant in the Castello district, set in a beautiful and slightly hidden area. It lies along the route toward the Biennale, but remains outside the main tourist flows.
Essays
The Room of the Four Doors appears suddenly, early in the visit. It is so overwhelming that, paradoxically, most people move on after only a few minutes. The instinct is to look up, toward the recently restored ceiling — now bright, almost white, and strangely magnetic.
Quiet Routes
Quiet Routes are simple walks through the quieter parts of Venice — canals, small campi and courtyards where the city still moves at its own pace. Today’s route begins near the Giardini, passes through Sant’Anna, reaches San Pietro di Castello and ends in Sant’Isepo.
Notes, essays, and sideways stories from Venice.
